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Please be sure students treat the iPad loaned to them with care, keeping it in the case and making sure it is used for remote and blended learning only. Students should not eat or drink while using it, and should be very careful when transporting it so it does not crack or break.
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In an effort to ensure pages only load over HTTPS, Chrome started to begin blocking mixed content by default with Chrome 79. Most recently, they unrolled features to start auto-upgrading mixed images and media.
Yes. The aim of do-it-yourself glass crack repair is to minimize the appearance of the crack and to contain the crack and prevent it from spreading.Glass repair will not make the crack completely invisible from all angles. Rather, it is a cosmetic touch-up that only minimizes the visual appearance of the crack. When viewed from certain angles, the repaired crack may not be visible. From other angles, the crack will be visible."}},"@type": "Question","name": "Can windshield glass be repaired?","acceptedAnswer": "@type": "Answer","text": "Windshield repair is not a do-it-yourself project. But professionals can repair windshields. Similar to the procedure described in this guide, a resin is injected into the crack to prevent it from spreading. It may be illegal to drive with a cracked windshield in your area. So, your insurance company can either repair the windshield or replace it entirely.","@type": "Question","name": "Can you make a crack in glass disappear?","acceptedAnswer": "@type": "Answer","text": "No, but you can minimize the repair's visibility. Transferring dirt or smudges onto the glass or mirror will make the patch visible. Dirt embedded in the epoxy stays on the glass. So, cleaning the glass is vital. Also, any remaining particles of epoxy will be visible. Make sure that you use a fresh razor blade or utility knife blade and remove all of the epoxy."]}]}] .icon-garden-review-1fill:#b1dede.icon-garden-review-2fill:none;stroke:#01727a;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round > buttonbuttonThe Spruce The Spruce's Instagram The Spruce's TikTok The Spruce's Pinterest The Spruce's Facebook NewslettersClose search formOpen search formSearch DecorRoom Design
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Get daily tips and tricks for making your best home.Subscribe The Spruce's Instagram The Spruce's TikTok The Spruce's Pinterest The Spruce's Facebook About UsNewsletterPress and MediaContact UsEditorial GuidelinesHome ImprovementInterior RemodelHow to Repair Cracked GlassBy
Glass repair will not make the crack completely invisible from all angles. Rather, it is a cosmetic touch-up that only minimizes the visual appearance of the crack. When viewed from certain angles, the repaired crack may not be visible. From other angles, the crack will be visible.
Windshield repair is not a do-it-yourself project. But professionals can repair windshields. Similar to the procedure described in this guide, a resin is injected into the crack to prevent it from spreading. It may be illegal to drive with a cracked windshield in your area. So, your insurance company can either repair the windshield or replace it entirely.
The VLC Media Player is a multi-platform, free, media player that plays all file types and is known for its simple interface and open-source nature. It was originally designed to simply play media files, but as time went on, it added a number of interesting features.
Secret U.S. government documents reveal that JPMorgan Chase, HSBC and other big banks have defied money laundering crackdowns by moving staggering sums of illicit cash for shadowy characters and criminal networks that have spread chaos and undermined democracy around the world.
Along with sifting through the FinCEN Files, ICIJ and its media partners obtained more than 17,600 other records from insiders and whistleblowers, court files, freedom-of-information requests and other sources. The team interviewed hundreds of people, including financial crime experts, law enforcement officials and crime victims.
As the young nurse was still healing in a hospital in early 2014, Yanukovych fled the country. So did his closest adviser, Chief of Staff Andriy Klyuyev, who had emerged as a despised face of the crackdown.
Since 2008, Deripaska has been the subject of allegations in media reports tying him to organized crime. When U.S. authorities announced sanctions against him in 2018, they said he had been previously been accused of threatening the lives of corporate rivals, bribing a Russian government official and ordering the murder of a businessman.
Most of these inspection targets recall my days as a shop mechanic, many of which were spent frustratingly chasing down stubbornly intermittent noises. I\u2019ve also enlisted the help of Jim Potter, owner of Vecchio\u2019s Bicicletteria\u00a0\u2014 a now-legendary service-focused shop in Boulder, Colorado.\n\u201cI often say we are noise-attenuation technicians these days,\u201d he said. \u201cPeople don\u2019t always come in because something isn\u2019t working or adjusted, but just to make their bike shut up\u201d.\nPotter says that the way modern bikes are built can make creaks harder to track down, too.\n\u201cCarbon bikes resonate the sound around more than older bikes,\u201d he said. \u201cA creaky Mavic front hub can sound like it\u2019s coming from the back.\u201d\nHere are 14 areas to check and how to fix them.\n1. Creaking chainrings and spider\n\n Creaks don\u2019t always come from the bottom bracket. Chainrings can also creak where they attach to the crankarm James Huang \/ Immediate Media\nChainrings can move ever so slightly against the mounting tabs, particularly under heavy pedalling efforts. Many new cranks are assembled without grease or thread retaining compounds, which exacerbates the issue.\u00a0\nUndo the chainring bolts and remove the chainrings from the crankarm. Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces between the chainrings and crankarm spider tabs, apply a very thin layer of grease, and then reassemble using either grease or medium-strength retaining compound on the bolt threads and heads.\nIn addition, many modern cranks now have separate chainring spiders that are either bolted or pressed on to the arm \u2014 another potential source of creaking.\u00a0\nFor bolt-on setups, undo the bolts, remove the spider and then reinstall with green Loctite 609 (or a similar medium-strength sleeve retaining compound) on the spline interface plus blue Loctite 220 (or equivalent) on the bolt threads.\nFor press-fit spiders, dribble a bit of Loctite 609 at the interface and allow it to wick into whatever space might exist between the parts. Allow to cure overnight and then reassemble.\n2. Creaking pedals\n\n Yup, pedals and cleats can creak, too. Clean the cleats and spray them down with a wax-based furniture polish. Remove the pedals from the cranks, clean and regrease the threads, and reinstall James Huang \/ Immediate Media\nPedals aren\u2019t often removed, which makes them a prime candidate for inspection, especially if you regularly (and aggressively) wash your bike. Chances are that whatever grease was originally applied to the threads is long gone.\nSimply remove the pedals, clean the threads on both the pedals and crankarm, and reinstall with a fresh coating of grease.\nYou can also get creaking from cleats. Wipe down both the cleats and pedals with a wet rag, and then spray both with a light coating of silicone spray or wax-based furniture polish.\u00a0\n3. Creaking saddle and seatpost head\n\n Seatpost clamp heads have lots of small parts that can move against each other and creak. Take it all apart, clean and grease, and reassemble. Some grease on the saddle rails occasionally helps, too James Huang \/ Immediate Media\nDoes your bike only creak when you\u2019re sitting down? It\u2019s very likely that the noise is coming from up top, not down below.\nMark your saddle\u2019s fore-aft position with a permanent marker and then remove the saddle from the seatpost. Wipe the surfaces clean and then apply a thin layer of grease to the rails and seatpost head. If your seatpost has carbon rails, make sure whatever grease you use won\u2019t damage them.\u00a0\nWhile you\u2019re at it, clean and grease the other interfaces on the seatpost head, including the saddle cradles and bolt hardware (with the exception of Thomson seatposts; the company says greasing the bolt threads is okay but the bolt heads should be left dry).\nThe saddle itself can also creak where the rails insert into the shell. Turn the saddle upside down and apply one small drop of heavyweight oil (like Phil Wood Tenacious Oil) at each anchor point. Let it wick in for a few hours and that should quiet things down.\n4. Creaking seatpost shaft\n\n Seatposts can creak in the frame. For metal seatposts in metal frames, pull the seatpost out, clean and regrease, and then reinstall (use friction paste if either part is carbon). It\u2019s a good idea to remove and grease the seatpost clamp bolt while you\u2019re at it, too James Huang \/ Immediate Media\nIf you\u2019re running a long seatpost, but only a small part of it is extending out of the frame, it\u2019s possible that the extension is moving against the inside of the seat tube under load.\nTo start, mark your seatpost height with paint or permanent marker, remove the seatpost, and then wipe everything clean (including the inside of the seat tube as best you can).\nFor metal-on-metal contact, grease the inside of the seat tube as far down as the seatpost will reach. If either the seatpost or frame (or both) are carbon fiber, use friction paste instead. Grease the seatpost clamp bolt and then tighten to spec.\n5. Creaking housing caps\n\n Cable housing is a notoriously sneaky source of creaking. Those little wires inside derailleur housing can make all sorts of racket if they\u2019re paired with metal ferrules, and the ferrules themselves can creak in the frame when the handlbars are turned back and forth. Plastic caps can help James Huang \/ Immediate Media\nThis is one of my favorites because it\u2019s among the last places anyone would think to look when sourcing errant noises.\u00a0\nDerailleur housing is especially prone to creaking since the longitudinal wires hidden inside the jacketing can so easily move against metal housing caps. Alternatively, metal housing caps can creak inside the frame stops when you move the bars from side to side.\nIf your derailleur housing has metal caps, make sure that the housing ends are cut square and then crimp the caps on to the housing so the two pieces can\u2019t move against each other. Finally, apply a bit of grease between the frame stop and housing cap.\nAlternatively, swap out the metal caps for plastic ones. They\u2019re not as durable but they\u2019re far less prone to making noise.\n6. Creaking spokes\n\n Creaky wheels are often indicative of low spoke tension. Retensioning the wheel is the best solution but a drop of oil at each spoke crossing, rim eyelet, and spoke nipple can help, too James Huang \/ Immediate Media\nSpokes can creak where they cross each other, particularly on wheels that aren\u2019t properly tensioned.\nRetensioning the wheel(s) to proper spec is the ultimate solution here but a tiny drop of oil at each spoke crossing, rim eyelet, and spoke nipple can help, too.\n7. Creaking headset\n\n See all those contact points? They can all creak. Pull everything apart, wipe it clean, regrease, and reinstall. Occasionally you\u2019ll need to remove, clean, regrease, and reinstall the headset cups, too James Huang \/ Immediate Media\nHeadsets are rife with metal-on-metal interfaces, each of which is prone to creaking.\nTo start, slide the fork out of the head tube and then clean and grease all of the contact surfaces. If that doesn\u2019t quiet things down, considering removing and reinstalling the cups and crown race with some grease or green Loctite, too.\n8. Creaking handlebar clamp\n\n Handlebar clamps are prone to creaking, especially with metal-on-metal interfaces. Mark the handlebar position with a permanent marker and remove the faceplate clamp. Clean everything off, apply friction paste to all of the mating surfaces, grease the bolt threads, and then reinstall, being sure to tighten to proper torque James Huang \/ Immediate Media\nIf the creaking you hear is often accompanied by a distinct tick coming up through your hands, the problem could be in your handlebars \u2014 specifically, where it\u2019s clamped inside the stem.\nMark the bar location with a permanent marker, and then remove the stem faceplate. Wipe all of the surfaces clean and then apply some friction paste to all of the contact points. Clean all of the bolt threads as best as possible, then apply grease or medium-strength Loctite, and then reassemble, torqueing everything down to proper spec.\nIf you have a really old aluminum handlebar with a sleeved center section, find yourself some Loctite sleeve retainer and apply it to the end of the sleeve, leaving time for each drop to wick in. Let it sit overnight to set and hopefully your next morning\u2019s ride will be blissfully silent.\n9. Creaking fork crown\n\n Suspension forks \u2013 in particular ones that have led a very hard life \u2013 can creak where the stanchions and steerer are pressed into the crown. It\u2019s possible that some sleeve retainer dribbled into the joint will squelch the noise but such audible protesting is also possibly indicative of an impending failure. It\u2019s best to play it safe here James Huang \/ Immediate Media\nStill hearing noises up front? If you\u2019ve got a suspension fork on your mountain bike, it could be the steerer tube and\/or stanchions moving inside the crown. Those interfaces are supposed to be permanent (and movement could be indicative of an impending failure) but if you\u2019re insistent on a DIY interim band-aid, you could consider apply some Loctite sleeve retainer at these interfaces, too \u2014 but do so at your own risk.\n10. Creaking hubs\n\n Modern hubs comprise a long list of separate parts \u2013 and every interface can creak. Pull it apart, clean and regrease all of the axle\/end cap\/bearing contact points, and then put it back together. Be careful with the driver mechanisms, though, as many require specific lubricants to work properly James Huang \/ Immediate Media\nYes, folks, hubs can creak, too \u2014 especially newer ones with all of their various cartridge bearings and press-on end caps, all of which can make noise under load. The best approach here is to take both hubs apart, grease each and every interface, and then reassemble.\nQuick-release skewers can also create problems, particularly ones with external cams that don\u2019t generate as much clamp force as they should. In addition to arguably being unsafe, an insufficiently secure fit allows the hubs to move around under load, which can also lead to creaking.\n\n Cassettes have lots of separate parts that can all move against each other. Clean and lube everything James Huang \/ Immediate Media\nWhile you\u2019re at it, make sure your cassette is properly tightened on the freehub body. Some new Shimano cassettes with composite sprocket carriers have also been somewhat prone to creaking but proper installation, plus some grease at all the contact points between each cassette segment and the freehub body, seems to help.\n11. Creaking derailleur hanger\n\n Replaceable rear derailleur hangers can be life savers but also another source of creaking. Pull them off, clean and grease all the mating surfaces, and then reinstall. Using medium-strength thread retainer on the bolt(s) is a good idea, too James Huang \/ Immediate Media\nNearly every frame these days has a replaceable rear derailleur hanger \u2014 which, yes, is prone to creaking.\u00a0\nRemove the hanger, clean the surfaces, and apply a thin layer of grease to the interface between the hanger and frame. Reinstall, being sure to use a medium-strength thread retaining compound to the bolts.\n12. Creaking rear derailleur\n\n Got a SRAM clutched rear derailleur? Early ones were especially prone to occasional creaking but injecting some grease through this hole can help James Huang \/ Immediate Media\nHaving trouble finding a mysterious creak from the rear end of your mountain bike? If you have a clutch equipped rear derailleur and you hear the sound every time the rear suspension compresses a bit, the culprit could be the clutch mechanism itself (particularly on earlier SRAM models).\nThankfully, no disassembly is required here, at least for SRAM derailleurs. Find a grease gun with a pointed tip and inject one or two pumps\u2019 worth of lubricant into the hole in the pulley cage marked in the image above.\n13. Creaking suspension pivots\n\n Suspension pivots are filled with lots of small parts, all of which can creak under load James Huang \/ Immediate Media\nModern full-suspension mountain bikes have heaps of moving parts, with each pivot point usually comprising a pair of pressed-in cartridge bearings, some aluminum spacers, a pivot shaft, and one or two bolts holding it all together \u2014 and it can all creak, especially on older bikes that have seen lots of hard riding (and subsequent washing).\nUsually, all that\u2019s required here is to remove each of the pivot shafts and then reinstall them after a good cleaning and greasing but if you\u2019re going to take it all apart, it\u2019s a good idea to apply some grease to those metal spacers as well. Check the bearings themselves, too. Grease can wash away or wear out over time and a seized bearing is almost guaranteed to make noise.\n14. Creaking frame\n\n Even the frame itself can creak if it\u2019s poorly welded or the tubes are roughly mitered. Either case is exceptionally rare, though James Huang \/ Immediate Media\nFinally, there\u2019s the frame itself. I\u2019ve only ever encountered this on a welded metal frame where a poorly mitered joint once developed an irreparable creak but it\u2019s something to consider nonetheless. The fix is unconventional and doesn\u2019t always work but it\u2019s worth trying, especially if the noise is seriously messing with your ability to enjoy a ride.\n\u201cYears ago, Cannondale recommended I pour hot linseed oil down a seat tube to try and quiet a creaky bottom bracket area with gaps in the miters,\u201d Potter told BikeRadar. \u201cIt worked! I\u2019ve used this trick on a couple of Cannondales, an Ellsworth, and a Pinarello \u2014 all aluminium frames.\u201d\nThis article was originally published in May 2015.\u00a0","image":"@type":"ImageObject","url":"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/21\/2019\/03\/creaking-bike-parts-1525341634631-llmf11te0g4z-1000-100-ddd273d.jpg?quality=90&resize=768,574","width":768,"height":574,"headline":"Silence those persistent mystery creaks","author":["@type":"Person","name":"James Huang"],"publisher":"@type":"Organization","name":"BikeRadar","url":"https:\/\/www.bikeradar.com","logo":"@type":"ImageObject","url":"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/21\/2019\/03\/cropped-White-Orange-da60b0b-04d8ff9.png?quality=90&resize=265,53","width":182,"height":60,"speakable":"@type":"SpeakableSpecification","xpath":["\/html\/head\/title","\/html\/head\/meta[@name='description']\/@content"],"url":"https:\/\/www.bikeradar.com\/features\/silence-those-persistent-mystery-creaks\/","datePublished":"2018-05-08T10:00:00+00:00","dateModified":"2019-05-09T15:33:22+00:00"}] Silence those persistent mystery creaks 14 sources of annoying sounds, and how to fix all of them 2ff7e9595c
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